Today Whit Dabbles in Volkswagens. I am not trying to profess to be a vintage Volkswagen expert, but I can tell you a few things about what to look for when you are buying a bus, or Type 2, T1, Volkswagen Split Bus. Some of this will translate to Type 1's (the beetle or bug) just simply because the engine is basically the same. Also of note, most of this will apply to relatively stock buses and engines as that is what we have.
Okay, so let's start with the years and what that means for you. Prior to 1967, VW's were 6v and after that they were 12v. What does this mean? Well, your transaxle in a 6v will have a smaller opening for the flywheel, you will have a harder time finding parts and batteries, and you will be limited with add-ons. You can convert a 6v to 12v, and there are kits for it, but there is work involved--just make sure you are willing to undertake that.
VW's in the T1 era DO NOT HAVE AIR CONDITIONING. This might not be a big deal for many of you, but if you live in a warm climate, get ready to bake yourself in your little toaster. Safari windows, or windows that flip open, are a must and even then, bring water. There is also a strong possibility that there will not be a radio, which isn't a huge issue these days with bluetooth and mobile speakers--just think about how you will power those options. That's right kids, no chargers or cigarette lighters. If you do concert to 12v you can easily add some of these things, just stuff to know.
If you've never driven a VW split bus, that shifter is long and very possibly sloppy. I learned how to drive a stick by watching British YouTubers scoot around crowded streets--it worked out pretty well. The one thing I wasn't expecting is how hard it often is to find a gear, especially if your shifter isn't setup properly. It helps to hold you hands in a certain way as well to ensure you push or pull in the right direction; palm to the driver for first and second, palm down for third, and palm to the passenger for fourth. Shifting slow and deliberate is important. It will take you some time to get used to it.
Engines are SMALL. That's right, most start with a whopping 46HP, some less, some a little more. If you are lucky enough to buy a bus with a larger engine, hopefully one that someone maintained, you will be a little better off. My 1965 bus has a beetle engine from 1967 and is 1600cc's, which equates to 46HP on a good day. The maximum speed limit I can currently achieve is 55MPH, likely because my engine needs some maintenance, which we are working on currently!
Keeping up with traffic is a chore, and if that makes you nervous, as it does me, driving can be challenging. The best advice I was given is that there is no hurry to get off the line in a classic. Remember that and remember that even if people are speeding around you, they probably smiled when they saw you.
Another thing about these vehicles is that they require constant maintenance. It isn't overly cumbersome, but you should expect to adjust your valves and change your oil every few months depending how often you drive.
Look everywhere when you are checking out the vehicle. Rust can hide in the oddest of places, and yes, people do bondo and paint right over it. I have heard horror stories about buses that look amazing but were a mess of bondo under all that pretty paint. Tap, magnet, whatever you need to do to make an informed decision.
Find the M-code plate and validate it! Behind the passenger seat is a metal plate with codes on it, and those codes indicate what options your bus was shipped with. If someone is trying to sell you a really rare option, verify it--if it's not original it might not be worth the price they are asking and that might also indicate other problems--either they don't know or they are willing to lie. Bertha's M-code plate indicates that she was a tin top Westy (Westfalia Camper Model), and as you can see she has a fancy pop-top! I don't mind because I didn't pay an 'all original' price and it is a feature that I wanted.
While you are in the vehicle, turn on the lights. Any weird smells that might indicate wiring issues? Start the vehicle yourself and see how quickly it starts up--if they are wise owners it will have already been warm and should start up right away. You can always stick your hand in the engine bay to tell if it was pre-warmed and that will give you an idea of the engine health. Another thing is to just listen to the engine, the idle and watch the belt. While you are in there, is the distributor an 009 or SVSA (single vacuum, single advance) or SVDA (single vacuum, dual advance)? 009's tend to run hot and aren't really good long term so you will likely replace it. Is the carburetor sized well for the engine size and how do the fuel lines look? You should replace the fuel lines as soon as you can regardless of how they look, and ensure you buy ethanol safe lines if you are in an area where there is ethanol in the fuel. Here is a link for the line that we purchased. In addition to the fuel lines in the bay, there is one underneath, behind the engine, that comes from the tank to the hardline that goes through the firewall. This is so much easier to change when the engine is out but it can be done with it in--I will likely cover that in another blog down the line. If you have any question about this one, just look up some of the fires on the Samba website--frankly they scared me enough to change my lines often.
Do all of the doors open with the same key? How loose does the shift rod feel (yeah, you might need to climb under if you can fit and it isn't lowered)? Is it possible that you might need to immediately repair shift rod bushings? Can you visibly see any leaks? As a note, this isn't always tell tale--my transaxle had ZERO gear oil in it because of a terrible leak. There is a meme that says something to the effect of, at least if it's leaking you know it has oil. VW's are pretty notorious leakers but that is not to say you can't find a way to stop it. Bertha only leaks a small amount from her sump plate, seeping from the the gasket area. I haven't quite figured that out yet but I think the block is a little wonky.
Speaking of, Bertha seemingly drives okay for someone who doesn't really know any better (old me) but a compression test and some investigation later, and her poor little engine is tired. It probably needs new rings and maybe valves--just be prepared that you will likely need to do some work when you get yours. Even restored VW's if they have been driven hard, can need work. There is maintenance you should do right off the bat as we said earlier: fuel lines, oil change, valve check, dwell, and timing, and maybe carburetor adjustments. It's also not a bad idea to check the fuel pressure coming off your pump. All these new, replacement pumps send a good deal of PSI above what is needed and can send unburnt fuel down the throat of your carb, into the oil, and ruining your just completed oil change! Amazon has test kits for about $15 and having the peace of mind is worth it. If you want to invest in a rebuilt Pierburg pump that might be a solution to the problem, assuming the rebuild is good.
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